Czech us out!



Charles Bridge at night...

Hello beloved friends and fam!  This is team A-Lo and Coco reporting for travel blog duty!  This is Anna, coming to you from Salzburg, Austria...and YES, right now they are showing the Sound Of Music on repeat in my hostel common area from where I write.  That is all I will write on Salzburg now, because we just got in last night and we have lived another WHOLE week in a completely different land.  We started this mystery journey we´re on in the Czech Republic last Wednesday...Prague to be precise.

I had a fond spot in my heart for this place left over from my last trip through Europe.  It clung to my memories as a place of jutting spires and absurdly winding and unpredictable cobble lanes... a place where the beer tastes better than any other and it flows like water through every bar and cafe...and a place which had ridiculously low one way airfare to in November.

Charles Bridge in the day!

Why you might ask would it be so cheap to fly to Prague on November 23rd?  I cant say for certain, but I would suggest is was because it is inhumanely cold there then.  This being said, daily we would go though a ritual of self preservation.  We would put our thermals on, then our fleece, then our Goretex, and then our down.  Lastly, we would put our heads down, and march on toward the blustery streets.

And did we ever march...

Because I knew the old town sights were within walking distance, we made Prague a metro free city visit.  That was a huge mistake.  There is a reason Prague has a wonderful metro system.  It´s because you need it.  I don´t know why we so stubbornly stuck to our walking guns, but we could never justify the cost of taking the metro when where we needed to

Sights from the Lennon Wall in Prague...

be was just a little bit farther.  Always a little bit farther, our feet tread ever onward, toward the next castle, beer and scenic overlook.  I will fill you in on some more specific highlights of where our ever faithful (and throbbing) feet took us.

The Grand Sights:  We did the necessary tourist crash course on this city.  Prague Castle, St. Vitus Cathedral (Cory was really awed by this one), the Jewish district, the Old Market square where we got to see the first annual tree lighting and almost got trampled by the massive hoards of Czech and tourist humanity that spewed towards the square 

  on that the first night of the Christmas Market.
We shoved and elbowed our way to the front of the line for Sausages and hot wine, and then proceeded to run for our lives.  We got eternally lost in the labyrinth of lanes that perpetually teased us to just explore around one more corner.

We drank a lot of beer.  Mostly early, to numb the bitter cold that reverberated through our bones.  It is good good beer.  It doesn´t make you feel bloated or full.  It tastes like honey.  It costs the equivalent of

one dollar.  It is one of my greatest allies in that place.  I will miss it dearly.

While we were running from the bounty hunter that is Jack Frost by taking refuge in the many restaurants, we got heavily into the local cuisine.  I use the word Heavily purposely.  This food was dense.  From the gravy drowing every dish, to the dense dumplings on the side...the food left me dumbfounded at how these


First tree lighting of the Christmas season







people live on that kind of food and are still able to slip into their mini skirts (yes, in below freezing temperatures) and skinny jeans after subsisting on that for a lifetime.

As shown above, we visited the Lennon Wall which was a place that in protest, the youth during the Communist occupation, would graffiti the lyrics and ideals of John Lennon.  The police would paint over it night after night, only for it to be painted over by the youth again.  This was a symbol of the hope that saw these people through a dark time in their history, and persists to tell the story today. 

Sprinkled into the 5 days in Prague, we took a day trip to a place called Kutna Hora.  This town is famous for a church they have there that was decorated with approximately 40,000  bones.  The church was built back in the 1300s, and after the plague occurred and killed most of Europe, the bones of many...many dead ended up there.  Anyways, if you are thinking this is creepy and weird, you are so very right.  We loved it though...not in a ax murderer kind of way, just out of the sheer novelty of the whole thing.  I can't imagine anything like that exists many other places.  From there, we still had a whole day in this town.  We found this place to be a delight we never expected beyond the Bone Church.  We bought a day pass to the beautiful St. Barbaras Cathedral and the Jesuit College which was housing a wonderful display on the Art Nouveau artist Alfons Mucha.  This ended up being both of our favorite part of the day. I love when traveling, you can stumble upon things you would never even know to plan.  At the end of our day, we hopped back on the train to Prague and were very thankful for our day trip to lovely Kutna Hora.

A bone bird eating a skull...of course.

Cory lighting a candle for the dead there

Hello creepy

The next day we decided we were just Pragued out.  We needed something smaller for a spell, so we headed to the notoriously charming, Cesky Krumlov.  It is a village about 3 hours south of Prague which is famous for its castle and overall fairytale quaintness.  It did not dissapoint.  We had so much fun lazily wandering the deserted lanes, ducking into midevil prisons turned restaurants, and trying to open doors we werent supposed to in the castle (that last one was all Cory).  The snow was falling so beautifully on the town, it made everything glow with the loveliness of wintertime.  It felt like we were there at the absolute perfect time in history.  We felt so wound up after our flight over...experiencing 4 days of jet lag...and attacking Prague with ridiculous tourist fervor...that our landing in all too comfortable Cesky Krumlov felt deleriously relaxing.

On our last of our two days there, we decided to track down the local brewery in town.  Cory and I had sampled their beer at a local pub, loved it and knew we had to find its source.  We located the brewery at 10 am, and proceeded to enjoy the brewery and the fruits of its labor like potentially no two people have done before.  The Czech beer casts a spell on its drinker.  You find it extremely difficult to know when to stop.  Time seems to dissapate in its presence.  That is what happened to us at the Eggenburg brewery.  We drank and laughed and drank and laughed and drank and laughed until the day had quitely passed leaving us wondering how that happened.  We finally knew enough had to be enough, and trotted back to our hostel.  And what joyous inaction must follow a morning such as this?  That is a nap of course...the most satisfying nap I can remember... 

                                                                                                  ...and this is why I travel.

Outside Cesky Krumlov Castle

In C.K. Castle at night

Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

 So that brings me to now.  A time we are regretably no longer under the spell of this awe inspiring place and its frothy beverages.  But alas, there are more awe inspiring places to find.  Salzburg has been a pleasant surprise, as we are loving the elegance and distinctly Austrian civility of it all.  We are just now, a week and change later, starting to feel sane about this whole journey.  The first week was a constant struggle to stay awake in the day and sleep during the night.  Now, we have logged a couple of decent nights sleep under our belts and are starting to feel like we own this experiance.  Like it is ours for the taking.  It is starting to feel as once in a lifetime as it is.  We are kind of shell shocked that we are actually doing this, and are so thankful to the people who encouraged and supported our going.

I hope you keep up with our trip and I will try to do it blog justice.  If youre reading this, you can be guarenteed we miss you.

love love love C and A



same same but different





Eggenburg Brewery in the am...





life could be a LOT worse.





















Reasons why.

 

 There's just something about good friends...that's hard to put your finger on.  What is it, that throughout the years, is the invisible glue that binds relationships?  If someone were to ask me why the people closest to me are there, the words I'd use to explain my love for them would feel somewhat hollow.  The reason being, perhaps, is that it is difficult to capture in words the flow of friendship as it develops.  Those relationships become so thick, that pinning them down with a word like "funny" or "smart" seems to only scratch the surface.  

Those are a few words that I could use to define the reason for the love that binds me to my friend Shandra.  Unfortunately, they don't sufficiently define how and why I love this small human so.  I will, however tell a short story from one of our recent escapades, which  frames something undefinable that I adore about her.

To say Shandra loves cats, is an understatement.  When a stray cat made it's temporary home at Jewell Gardens recently, she squealed with glee, promptly named it Kiki (she calls all cats kiki) Quiche, and made it a home out of a wine box and kept it at her desk.  The fact that her beloved cat Baker has turned senile and even meaner in his old age is the ultimate insult and betrayal to her, after years of her feeding him shrimp even though it made her gag.  So on our road trip last weekend, which ended in a nearby town of Haines, Alaska...I wasn't shocked that she brought up a cat. 

She said that she had once met the fattest cat she'd ever seen in this town.  This was quite exciting to me.  Reason being, I know she has seen A LOT of cats, and to think that the fattest one could be waddling in our midst made my heart palpitate.  I am a sucker for fat animals.  

As she is telling us this fact, she looks up the street  we are walking on, and says..."Oh, THERE he is!"

Sure as the day is long...there was the fattest cat I had ever seen laying on the cement, seeming to say to Shandra with his eyes, "What took you so long?"  She runs up to this monstrous cat and hoists it's obese body into her arms. She then proceeds to tell us that she and her husband had actually named this cat when they had met him here last.  His name was Leftovers.  This sent all of us into a fit of hysterics, for obvious reasons, and because that is just brilliant and just so her. 

As she flew away from Skagway yesterday, for perhaps the last time, I felt no threat of this new space between us keeping me away from my friend for long.  With friends who so celebrate a story about a fat cat named Leftovers, there is nothing that can keep those hearts from laughing together again. 

Ode to brilliance.

Fact:  I have a wonderful husband. 

Everyday we're together, I am astounded by his complexity and caring. 

Example:  Last night.

We had been eagerly anticipating going to an "Adult Prom" (obviously, there was much discussion regarding how pervy calling it an "adult" prom made it sound) that our Eagles Club was putting on.  Any excuse to remove the boxy polos and awkward v-neck uniform shirts I am forced to wear for work, and put on something that doesn't state the name of my employer is warmly received.  Being that we...the royal we being Cory, Carlee and I, spend 80% of our time off in the Eagles social room anyway, this was really a "must attend" Skagway event.  Cory had hinted that he had a surprise for his two wives (Carlee has become an extremely platonic adopted wife since Jake left Skagway) for the big night. 

So last night, he presented us with our gifts for prom.  They were hand crafted corsages he had made for us to wear, along with boutineers for him and our friend/Eagles bartender, Andy.  They were amazing.  Carlee's was made of PBR cans.  As it was a bit cumbersome, she eventually wore it as a hairpiece.  Nonetheless, brilliant.  Mine was a gorgeous Dalia with 3 pretty feather accents.  The wrist band was actually a cut up tube sock...obviously.  It actually went with my dress perfectly, and he said he made it big and beautiful to be like me.  He quickly retracted the "big" and replaced it with "bold," and we were on our merry way to prom.

Conclusion: I love this man.

***

***Cory's otter tie compliments of my mother, Tracey Lokar...speaking of brilliance.

View from a shuttle.

The word "Alaska" brings so much to mind, depending on who you ask.  On the daily, I am confronted with the conflicting duality of the overwhelming and humbling physical splendor of this land contrasted with the constant sharing of this place with the monsterous cruise ships which provide income for our small town. 

As the tourists pour off day after day, I feel the tug and pull of comfort in knowing that it is another day we can all earn a wage, mixed with the underlying feeling of annoyed exploitation as so many look past the heartbreaking beauty, while asking where the nearest T-shirt outlet is. 

As I sit in the shuttle, in which I gratefully drive as my second job, I look out to the reflections on the Lynn Canal.  Half of my view is natural beauty at it's finest.  The other half is filled with a floating city, filled with people...mostly Texans...who are concocting their own idea of "Alaska." 

Whether for them that meaning is getting their free charm at Diamonds International...or truly appreciating the all too obvious glory of this land...I've long ago realized that is not up for me to decide.  All I can do is take my time, in my day, to say thank you for the blessing of this place in my life. 

And tonight, for this view from a shuttle, I am glad.

If it ain't broke.

I am currently in the market for obsessing about all things this winter...when I will be flinging myself into a Balkan winter wonderland.  My current focus dejour takes me to the ever perplexing, travel footwear.  

Reasoning correctly that I should not take the comfort of my feet lightly on a 6 month backpacking trip, last time around I purchased a pair of boots from El Naturalista. 

http://www.elnaturalista.com/index.php/en/

This is a Spanish company who focuses on combining quality footwear from natural components, while carrying out humanitarian work in disadvantaged populations. They served me so well, I STILL have them in my closet, and two friends purchased the exact same pair. 

After digging around on the internet, trying to find something quality, warm, comfortable, and (gasp!) attractive...I came back full circle to their site.  Come to find out, their styles have gotten better since I've last looked 5 years ago.  While some are still a little to "rustic" for me, I am excited about a couple styles that offer a practical solution to finding a comfortable AND not repulsive travel shoe.

Here are some styles that make me swoon and dream of walking down uneven cobblestone lanes in the snow...

premonitions & propositions.

Hello all semi-interested followers!

THIS IS AN ALERT!

Sometimes alerts need to go out when statements just won't do.  This alert pertains to many travel premonitions I am having for this upcoming winter season.  The husb and I are planning what I consider to be a worth-while endeavor into all things not here.

Not that HERE isn't great...because it is.  However, it is still here of course, so we must dream of the other. 

What consists of not here, you ask?  Many places...but let's focus like a laser beam in on our "not here" places of interest.  The reason I bring this up at all, is that this is a sounding call...a beacon of sorts...to all wayward souls...looking for a new horizon...to take up their backpacks and tattered Lonely Planets, and join us in a portion of our 4 month (if all goes well) journey abroad. 

This is where I rattle off where we're going and why you should join us, if your life allows of course...

                       Flying into Prague November 23, 2010

 http://www.lonelyplanet.com/czech-republic/prague 


We will be spending about a week here.  I chose Prague to fly into because I have been there before and it is a thing of fairy tales.  Throughout the 17 European countries I surveyed in my past trip, none surpassed Prague in it's ability to invoke my imagination.  Castles, cobblestones, Kafka...and lastly and most importantly...the best and least expensive beer in Europe.  Enough said.

                                          Balkans
                          December 1st-December 20th 
                                       (This is rough estimate, but you get the idea...)

http://www.balkanology.com/

Many reasons we are going to these countries.  First off, I am half Slovene and I like it there A LOT.  This is must show for my new husband before we continue to attempt knowing each other.  Once you are in Slovenia, it is a delightfully slippery slope down to Croatia, where the Dalmatian coast warms you and the local wine numbs your face. The rest of it is deliciously unknown to me.  I have been reading about these countries which have undergone so much strife and warfare over the last two decades.   I am ultimately curious to see how the dynamic between these small countries who were once one big awkward Yugoslavia, coexist today.  We will be busing and training through the Balkans, and yes..it will be cold...and yes...it will be worth it. 

                       Greece,  December  20th- January 15th

 http://www.wwoof.org/newsite08/wlist2.asp?cy=GREECE

We are not what you'd classify as independently wealthy (shocking but true), and are certainly sacrificing to venture out for months at a time.  This being said, specific measures shall be taken to ensure we don't run out of money.  Now that we have hypothetically reached Greece, we will work our way down from Thessaloniki to Athens to the islands, where we intend on working for our keep.  Being that the weather should be slightly warming in this area, the harvest is ripe for working on organic farms in exchange for room and board.  We are excited to meet up with families in the area who are looking for competent laborers (I'm counting on Cory as my cash cow on this front) to help cultivate their farmland for certain hours of the day, while the rest is left to wander and explore.  We will be Wwoofing (Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms) for some of the time in Greece, but not all.  If you are looking to enjoy a little Grecian lifestyle in the non-sweltering, tourist infested busy season...you might consider joining the Nelson's for a mellow, off the beaten path experience. 

                        Turkey,  January 15th-February 15th
http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/

When we are done with Greece, we'll take a ferry over to Turkey.  Ferries in my experience are a unique way to bridge borders, and I love the idea of floating from a Greek Island to Turkey's mystical shores.  The plan is to see as much of Turkey as we can without breaking the bank.  Obviously the historical points of interest are absurdly abundant, and I love the idea of making a big loop around Turkey.  I am realistic that this time of year is not conducive to much travel on the inland of Turkey, but this is where we will play it divinely by ear. 

                           Israel,  February 15th-March 15th

We'll be spending our last month in the country that holds so much significance to Cory and I as Christians.  As of yet, there has been little planning involved  with  the latter portion of the trip, i.e. Israel...so if anyone has tips for this final destination of ours, it would be greatly appreciated.  Really, if anyone has ANY helpful hints on ANY legs of our journey, I would be thrilled.  One of my favorite parts of traveling is the mutual helpfulness, hospitality, and assistance needed to make it what it eventually is.

                                                

From hostels, to couch surfing recommendations, sights to see, and ways to travel...we need and love all advice.  Also, if you hadn't noticed, we'll love company abroad...so if you've been thinking that you need a little culture, but you don't know where...look no further than ALo and Coco's Wild Winter Ride!

Email me @ annalokar@gmail.com

Simple pleasures.

In the midst of the winding down tourism season here in my sometimes home of Skagway, my head is spinning from the onslaught of interactions with the perpetual "guests" pouring off the cruise ships.  When I feel like I need to have a moment to breathe from the torrent of tour guiding, I need look no farther than my lovely office.  I give tours at a glass studio which happens to be situated in the midst of a breathtaking garden.  No matter the weather, no matter my mood, Jewell Gardens leaves me with no choice but to enjoy it's simple and perpetually fleeting beauty. 

s